Tie sewing machine



'4 Sheets-Sheet 1 mm Qm 9% mm mm m9 RN J. A. NEUMAIR ET AL TIE SEWING MACHINE Filed Nov. 27, 1941 Oct. 23, 1945.

iNVENTOR CARL W.JOHNSON BY JOSEP A.N U MA|R ATTORNEY Oct. 23, 1945. J. A. NEUMAIR ET AL TIE SEWING MACHINE F iled Nov. 27, 1941 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 FIG.2

15.9 J65 163 J46 87 J67 INVENTOR CARL w. JOHNSON BY JOSEPH A.NEUMA|R.

ATTORNEY E Oct- 23, 1 4 I J. A. NEUMAIR ET AL 2,337,282

TIE SEWING MACHINE 4 Sheet-Sheet 3 v Filed 'Nov 27, 1941 FIG.3

rllll 4 wwww d ATTORNEY Oct. 23, 1945. J, A N u AL r 2,387,282:

- TIE SEWING MACHINE Filed NOV. 27, 1941 4 Sheets-Sheet INVENTbR CARLv W. JOHNSON JOSEPH A. NEUMAIR;

Patented Oct. 23, 1945 TIE SEWING MACHINE Joseph A. Neumair, Hollis, and Carl W. J ohnson,

Brooklyn, N. Y -assignors to- American Machine & Foundry Company, a corporation of New Jersey Application November 27, 1941, Serial No. 420,618

Claims.

This invention relates to'sewing machines, more particularly to necktie sewing machines of the stationary needle type suchas shown in the patent to M. M. Newman et al., 2,098,009.

One of the objects of the invention is' to-provide an improved reversing mechanism for driving the crimpers to'stitch the lining to the fabric and then to withdraw the same from the needle. In the reversing mechanism shown in the copending application of M. M. Newman et a1'., Serial No. 250,343; filed January 11, 1939, on which Patent No. 2,282,872 was issued May 12, 1942, the driving and reversing is effected by stepping on oneor the other of a pair of pedals which control separate drives from the motor to the machine, and occasionally the operator would bars on the lower chain would engage the trail-' ing faces of the crimper bars on the upper chain and thereby drive the latter. Thus the crimper bars on the upper chain would not be centered in the spaces between the crimper bars on the lower chain,wherefore the lining and fabric would not be maintained snugly against the trailing faces of the crimper bars on the lower sprocket chain and stitches of the desired length would not be produced. By driving both chains this effect is avoided.

Another object is to provide the proper gear In the accompanying drawings, which form a part of this specification and in which like characters of reference indicate the same or like parts:

Fig, 1 is a side elevation of the improved machine;

Fig'; 2 is an end elevation thereof;

Fig. 3 isa View taken on the line 3-3 of Fig. 1, showing the reversing mechanism and the brake device, the position of the motor being shown in dot and dash lines; 1

Fig. 4 is a detail enlarged View of the crimper bars which coact to form several narrow pleats in-the leading end of the lining and a single narrow pleat inthe' lining and superposed necktie fabric, behind the narrow pleats;

Fig. 5 is a sectional View taken on the line5--5 of Fig; 1;. and

Fig. 6 is a sectional view taken on the-line 6 5 of Fig. 1.

Referring to-Fig. 1, the crimper bars I0 on the upper sprocketchain l2 and the crimper bars M on the lower sprocket chain it have suitably beveled faces to provide triangular teeth which inter-engage with each other as shown, to form pleats in thesuperposed necktie lining and fabric and advance the same over the eye ['8 of'the needle The needle is slidably mounted in a needle holder 22 of well known construction ar ranged at'the' rearend'of th'e' machine, the holder consisting of threev superposed plates, the middle plate being provided with a broad slot in" which ratio between the lining guide cam and the sprocket chains so that the cam will not get outof a predetermined timing with respect I to the crimper bars.

Still another object is to provide a construction for supporting the upper sprocket chain which .will permit the same to be lifted for access to the which will not interfere with the withdrawal of the pleated necktie from the needle after" stitch- 'ing. With these and other objects not specifically mentioned in view, the invention consists incertain-constructions and combinations hereinafter .fully described;

is disposed the rear end of the needle which is bent into the shape of a hook. The shank of the needle extends forwardly through a narrow slot in the forward end of the middle plate of the needle holder, the narrow slot communicating with the broad slot, and through transverse slots 2"4 and26' inl.the' crimper' bars I0 andlll (Fig; 2).

The slots of opposed criinper bars are aligned with each other and co-act to grip the needle while the superposed-necktie lining and fabric are being advanced upon the shank of the needle, when the sprocket chains l2 and lfi'are driven in a direction to" stitch the lining and fabric together'. Thus the needle-isslid backwardly in its holder until' its. eye assumes the dotted position ['8 shown in Fig.1.

It is: desirable to form relatively short stitches in the leading end of the lining ahead of the longer stitches which hold' the fabric and lining together. For this purpose there are alsomounted on the respective sprocket chains l2 and I6, opposed crimper bars 28 and 30, whose opposed faces have inter-engaging teeth which form a of short stitches ahead of the stitches formed when the pleats resulting from the inter-engagement of bars I6 and I4 are penetrated by the needle. There is also provided a crimper bar 32 on the upper chain "I2 which engages withone beveled face of an'underlying crimper bar 34', which is of the same configuration and size as the bars I and I4 and mounted on the lower chain I6, to form a single leat in both the lining-and the leading end of the fabric thus uniting the same with a single short stitch when crimper bars 32 and 34 advance this pleat in the lining and the underlying leading end of the necktie fabric on the needle. The opposed crimper bars ahead of the bars 28 and 30 have the same configuration and are mounted on sprocket chains I2 and I6 in the same manner as the crimper bars I0 and I4 following the crimper bars 32 and 34, and are accordingly designated as I0 and, I4, respectively. The crimper bars 28, 30, 32 and 34 have transverse slots similar to the slots 24 and 26. It

should be noted, however, that the bar 32 correto a greater depth than the teeth of the bar 28.

In prior constructions the tip of the bar correspending to our bar 32 terminated at a point aligned with the tips of the teeth on the bar 28, wherefore the depth of the corresponding pleat was insufficient and occasionally the stitch through said pleat was skipped, but with our construction of the bar 32 the depth of the pleat bracket 48 fastened to the top plate of the needle holder, the thread being then drawn along the transverse slots of the crimper bars wherein the needle is positioned and threaded through the eye I8 thereof. a

The lower sprocket chain I6 may be formed as a triple width chain running over a triple sprocket 50 fastened on a shaft 52 supported in the front frame 54 (Fig; 1) and a rear frame 56 (Fig. 3), these frames being supported by a bed 51, and chain I6 also runs over a triple sprocket 58 mounted on a. shaft'60 which is supported in the front and rear frames 54 and 56. Shaft 60 carries a sprocket 62 driven by a sprocket chain 64 from a sprocket 66 mounted on a shaft 68.

journaled in bearing brackets I0 and I2 supported from frames 54 and 56. On the shaft of electric current. 011 a shaft 88 suitably supported in a bracket 8! fastened to the bed 51 and a cross bar 89 fastened to the brackets I0 and I2 and frames 54 and 56, are mounted frames and 92, the latter having welded or otherwise fastened thereto a split collar 93 whose ends 94 are fastened together by a screw 96 thereby securing the frame 92 to shaft 88. The bases of the frames and 82 are connected by plates 98 to which the motor is fastened. The end of shaft '08 protruding from bed 51 is provided with an arm I00 connected by a link I02 to a treadle I04 fulcrumed on a shaft I06 mounted in the bed 51 of the machine. The link I02 is connected to treadle I04 by a pin I08 shown at the right of the fulcrum in' Fig. 2, so that upon depressing the end of the treadle marked F" the shaft 88 will be rocked by the connection of the treadle to the arm I00 in a clockwise direction and the friction pulley 82 will be engaged with the flange 80 of the V pulley I6 to drive the shaft 68 forwardly. When the end of the treadle marked R. is depressed, the cone pulley 82 willbe engaged with the flange I8 to drive the shaft 60 in the rearward direction. Thus the shaft 60 may be driven forwardly or rearwardly and a gear Il0 mounted on shaft 60 will drive a gear II2 mounted on a sprocket H6 supported by a bolt H3 passing through the front frame 54 and supporting the rear end of the bars H4 and H5. The triple sprocket II6 loosely mounted on the portion of bolt II3 between the bars H4 and H5 drives the triple sprocket chain I2, the latter running over the triple idler sprocket II8 loosely mounted on the stud I20 (Figs. 1 and 6) passing through the front end of bar H5, the sprocket H8 and a pair of rollers disposed between sprocket I I8 and bars II 4 and II5, and threaded into the front end of the bar I I4 which is fastened to the front frame 54 by a screw I2I passing through an elongated slot in the frame 54. The outer ends of the bolt H3 and the stud I20 are thus connected by the support bar II5. On the stud I20 are loosely mounted rollers (shown in Fig. 6) at either end of the triple sprocket II8 to support the ends of the crimper bars as they pass around the sprocket H8. A nut I22 threaded on the outer end of the shaft I20 retains the sprocket and rollers thereon.

Upon removing the screw I2I it is possible to tilt the bars H4 and H5 upwardly with the sprocket chain I2 to afford access to the crimper bars on the lower sprocket chain. While the fastcning of the bar II4 by the screw I2I may be dispensed with it has been found that if the bars II 4 and H5 are left unsupported at their front ends and free to pivot on the bolt I I3 at their rear ends, to permit them to be swung upwardly when the fingers of an operator are accidentally inserted between the crimper bars of the upper and lower chains, that the pleating and stitching of the materials will not be performed satisfactorily unless the upper sprocket chain is weighted. With the present construction the screw I2I may be loosened and the bars H4 and H5 swung upwardly or downwardly to position the crimper bars on the upper sprocket chain in the desired relation with respect to the bars on the lower chain to pleat and stitch the materials satisfactorily. Thus the bars H4 and H5 may be swung upwardly or downwardly on bolt II3 to raise or lower the stud I 20 and thereby raise or lower the sprocket II8 with the chain I2. The extent of this adjustment is limited by the length of the slot in frame 54 through which screw I2I passes.

Heretofcre. thesupperi chain carryingthe crimper bars wagnotdrivem andinxthepresent construction the additional: drive. for the upper chain tends tokeep its crimper bars in thedesired positionrelative to thecrimper bars on the lower chain and. decrease the drag.

On the endof the shaft 52. rotruding. from frame '4 is mounted: a pinion I which drives aring gear I32 attached to a wheel I34 vfastened on. the. shaft 136.. The wheel I34 on its-periphery carries a cam: I 38 which hasa predetermined contour for guidingthe cam followers of the lining guide mechanism. One of the cam followers I48 is supported by a block I42 fastened by a pin I43 to a. rod I44; I46 to'the rod I44; and to the block I 46 is detachably secured: by screws [541 a guide finger I48 whichhas a downwardlybent portion on its-upper endunderlying the transverseportion I58 of the L-slot I 5+ in the inclined. plateor table I52 which isprovided with an; extension supported on and extending along. the frame 56. The other cam follower I253 is carried bya block I55 which is fastened by a screw I55 to a rod I51 passing through notches in the upper ends of the blocks I.=4-2- and. I46 and fastened by a screw I58 to the block I55 on which is secured a guide finger [61. The latter is detachably secured to block I59: by screws I62; and finger I-6I is, of the same I shape as finger I48: and interchangeable with it, and also provided witha bent portion :on its-upper endunderlying the transverse portion I'50 of slot I.-5.I. One: end of a: tension spring IE3 is fastened to a hook I65 on block I59 and itsother end is secured to a post I6FI= secured to the block I46; Thus the guide finger I81 and I48 are yieldinglyurged. toward. each other, the extent of separation thereof. being determined by the-con- .tour. of. the cam I38 which issimilar to: that shown: inthe co-pending application of J. A.-

Neumair, Serial No; 441,464,. filed. May 2;, 1 942, and suitably designed to displace the finger I61 outwardly to a position wherein its bent upper end lies at the outer side ofthebend in the slot I5I' to permit thelining to he slid-- through the outer end of theslot into the transverse portion ISO-thereof when the crimper bars 28*and 30' are approaching the position shown in Fig. 1 around the sprockets H8 and 50. At thesametime the edge of. a lining. held centrally with respect to the notches24and26in the crimper bars'and-the needle; The leading: end of thelining. is then inserted between the crimper bar 28 and: the preceding crimper bar I8, wherefore: it is clamped between the adjacent sides of the same to be impaled upon thepoint ofthe needle as bars- 28 and. I8 are advanced to the position shown in Fig. 1. Theleading. end. of. the necktie fabric is superposed onthe liningand inserted between the. crimper bar 32 and the crimper bar 28,.one edge of the fabric being: positioned along a stationary guide (not shown).- on table" l52-which is similar to that shown inthe application of Max M. Newman-Serial No. 343,515, filed- July 2, 1940,

to place the fabric in. the desired central positionrelative tothe needle; the leading end of the fabric being clampedbetween the adjacent sides ofthe. bars 28 and 32 and stitched to the lining asthe bars 28 and 32 continue traveling toward the rear sprockets. The.- length: of the opposed runs. of the sprocketchain' is-suflicient to stitch a-desired maximum. length, of. .fabric to a! lining, andlthe transverse contour of the=cam or pattern band. I38 is-such. that the: followers I48 and. I61

A screw I45 fastens a block iii) are moved. toward e'achsother' to equidistant positions at either side of the-desired center line of the lining coinciding with: the needle to properly guide. the. lining. during: substantially its entire length until the cam I38 returns tothe position shown. in Fig. 2 which occurs when the crimper bars 28: and 30 have been advanced a predetermined maximum distance toward their rear sprockets.

The gear. ratio between the ring gear I32 andtide pinion. I38 "is such that when the sprocket chains I2:and1 I6 make one or more complete circuits around the sprockets and backto initial position the. cam I38 will also be returned: to its initial position wherein the crimper bars 28 38,

32' and. 34' are adjacent the point of the needle. A suitablegear ratio for this purpose is 24 teeth on: pinion I'3 8 and 134 teethongear I32 if'the chain I'6 has-1'34 links or pitches and the sprocket 5i has 12 teeth. Thereforethe gear I32 andcam I38 will be turned. two complete revolutions when the. chains I2 and I6 make one complete circuit. Heretofore the proper" ratio: of these gears was not used, wherefore; if the sprocket chains were drive-11in a reverse direction to make one or more complete" circuits; as when drawing the thread through: the grooves 24' and 26 of the crimper bars preparatory to threading it through the eye of the needle, the cam I38 would be out of time with: respect to the' crimper bars'ZB and 30. It

is customary in threading the loose end of the thread T to insert it betweenv the crimper bars onthe portions ofthe: chains I2 and. I6 running over sprockets 58 and H6 and at one side of the grooves 24' and 26 of the crimper bars whereby the end of thread T will. be nipped between opposedcrimper bars on chains I2 and I6 as they interengage one another. Then when the chains I2 and I6- are further advanced rearwardly the end: of. thread T will: be drawn between the 0pposedruns of'chains I2 and I6 and nipped by the following crimper bars as they interengage with one anotheradjacent sprockets 58 and H6. The chains are usually advanced rearwardly for at least one complete circuit after the end of thread T has-been nipped between the crimper bars.

finger I48 is-disposed in aposition'to engage one 3 Thussufficient thread will be drawn. from spool S t'oprovide a suflicient length of thread projecting from between. the opposed runs of chains I2 and I6 adjacent sprockets 58 and II8'which may be graspedto position the thread in the grooves 24 and: 26 of the opposed crimper bars along the opposed runs of chains I2 and I6. Then the projecting end of threadT can be inserted into the eye of needle I8. Since the chains I2 and I6 are moved-through a distance corresponding to their entire length while this operation is performed, the cam I38 will be turned two revolutions and will be returned to the same position. If the cam I38 had been: in the proper position to proceed with the sewing of the lining to the fabric,

then when the sprocket chains I2 and I6 make oneoomplete circuit the cam I38 will be returned to the same position and stitching of the fabric to the lining can be commenced;

It was found that upon depressing the treadle Hi4 the sprocket chains would tend to over-run thedesired position, and time would 'be wasted returning them to the desired position. Accordingly there" isprovided in the present constructicn mechanism for bra-king the V-pulley I6 upon movement ofthe cone pulley: 82' from driving engagement with'either flange I8 or to its normal intermediate position. For this purpose'the lever I69 which is. fulcrumed on a. stud I'I'Il fas- -tened' in the plate- I'II 'adjustably fastened to the front frame 54; has a V-shaped cam notch engaging with cam roller I'I3 on the frame 90. The lever I69 is connected by an adjustable link II with a toggle ioint consisting of a long link I11 and a short link I19.

One endof the link I I1 is connected by a'pin I'I0'to a block I80 ,attached to the end of the link I15 and the other end of link I'II is connected by a pin. I82 to a bar I84 pivoted on a stud I86 1 fastened in the cross-bar 89. The short link IE9 is connected by a pin I88 to a bar I90 pivoted on a stud I92 similarly fastened in the bar 89. To each of the arms I84 and I90 is fastened an angle iron I94 which is equipped with a facing of suitable brake lining the sides of the V-pulley I6, but upon releasing the treadle the motor swings back to a vertical position and the spring I98 is permitted to reengage the brake linings with the sides of the V-pulley'IG.

To the upper edge of the bar H4 is fastened a cover 202 overlying theupper run of the upper sprocket chain I2, and at the front end of the cover 202 is hinged a guard 204 which hangs down in position to prevent the operator from insertin'g her fingers between the upper and lower crimper bars. -Heretoiore the guard has been fastened to the cover and upon reversing the motion of the crimper bars to withdraw the stitched lining and fabric from the needle, bunching of the pleats formed in the necktie has interfered with its egress from under the guard. With the present construction, the bunchedmaterial will just swing the guard upwardly and not interfere in any way. It will also be noted that the lip on the lower edge of the guard is upwardly bowed from its middle section toward its outer side, thus furnishing sufiicient space to permit manual insertion of the lining and fabric through this space into the crimper bars, and yet hindering insertion of the operators fingers into the path of the crimper bars. It may also be noted that the guard 204 i suitably cut away to permit inspection of the movement of the material into the crimper bars.

What is claimed is: I

1. In a'sewing machine having an elongated needle, the combination with a pair of endless sprocket chains having opposed runs, one of said chains overlying the other chain, two pair 01 sprockets over which said chains run, endless series of crimper bars supported on each of said sprocket chainsthe crimper bars on each of the opposed runs of'said chains being adapted to interengage with the crimper bars on the other of the opposed runs and pleat a superposed necktie lining and fabric and advance the same upon said needle to stitch the same, a pair of supports on which the sprockets of said overlying chain are mounted, a frame on which one end of said supports is pivotally mounted, said frame being provided with an elongated slot adjacent the other end'of said supports, and a screw passing through said slot and threaded into one of said supports.

g 2. In a necktie sewing mechanism, the combination with an elongated stationary needle;:of a'pair'"of endless'traveling supports having opposed horizontal portions, one of-said portions lying above the other of said portions, crimper members mountedvon' each of said supports, the crimper members on one support being adapted .to interengage with the crimper members on the other support alongsaid opposed portions of the supports for forming several narrow pleats in the leading-end of a necktie lining only and advancing-them uponlthe needle; a-pair of opposed crimper'bars-moun'ted on said'supports immediately behind said crimpermembers, the crimper bar on one support being arranged to interengage with the crimper bar on the other supportalong the opposed portions of said supports and form a single pleat in the lining and the leading end of, a fabric superposed thereon, the crimperbar on theupper endless support along said opposite portions extending downwardly a greater distance than the crimper members on said upper support for forming asingle pleat having a greator depth "than the pleats'in the leading end'of the lininggsaid' crimper bars coacting to advance said singlepleat upon the'needle, and crimpers behinds'aid crimper bars, the crimpers on said upper support along said opposed portions extending downwardly a greater distance than said crimper members for forming pleats having a greater depth than the pleats in the leading end of i the lining.

advance the same upon the needle tostitch the fabric and lining together, and the crimper bars on said lower horizontal run of the opposed runs having edges disposed at right angles to said lower horizontal run and arranged in abutting relationship with one another to prevent sag ging of said lower run. 7 g p 4. In a sewing machine having an elongated needle having an eye in its forward end, a set of endless flexible, traveling supports having opposed runs which extend along said needle, series of crimpers mounted on said supports and adapted to interengage along said opposed runs and thereby pleat an associated necktie fabric and lining and advance the pleated lining and fabric along said needle to stitch the same together, a rotary endless pattern member, a pair of spaced lining guides arranged to'engage and guide the edges of the portion of the lining in front of said crimpers and thereby guide the lining as it is being pleated and advanced upon the needle, said lining guides being provided with cam followers engaging the opposite edges of said pattern band, and the edges of said pattern band having a contour such that the lining guides will be moved toward and away from each other and thereby maintained in engagement with the lining edges as the lining is advanced by said crimpers; the combination with means for driving saidsupports in a forward direction to cause said crimpers to pleat and advance the entire length of a necktie lining, and the po'rtion'of a necktie fabric 'associated therewitmupon said needle to stitch the same together, said means being operable to drive the supports in a reverse direction to withdraw the stitched fabric and lining from the needle, and mechanism driven from said means for revolving said pattern band a single complete revolution, and thereby returning said pattern band to initial position, while the crimpers have traveled sufilciently in a forward direction to advance a complete lining upon said needle, said mechanism and means being so proportioned that when said supports are advanced in a reverse direction a distance corresponding to their entire length, as when drawing the thread between said opposed runs for insertion in the eye of the needle, the pattern band will be turned through several complete revolutions and. returned to its initial position.

5. In a sewing machine having an elongated needle, the combination with a pair of endless sprocket chains having opposed runs, one of said chains overlying the other chain, two pair of sprockets over which said chains run, endless series of crimper bars supported on each of said sprocket chains, the crimper bars on each of the opposed runs of said sprocket chains being adapted to interengage with the crimper bars on the other of the opposed runs and pleat an associated necktie'fabric and lining and advance the same upon said needle to stitch the same together, a support on which the sprockets of the overlying chain are mounted, a frame on which said support'is pivotally mounted, and a device for detachably securing said support to said frame whereby the overlying chain may be swung upwardly upon releasing said device, by pivotally moving said support upwardly on its pivotal mounting on said frame.

CARL W. JOHNSON. JOSEPH A. NEUMAIR. 

